27 July 2018
Hamo course in Kiyokawa, Nagasaki (鱧づくし 清花和 長崎), Japan
Hamo, the signature fish in Summer, in texture, taste and flavour
The fish, Hamo is come from Ariake sea area. During the Gion festival season(from first to end of June) in Kyoto, the people in Kyoto will feel the coming summer with Hamo sent from Kyusyu or Setouchi area. On this staying in Nagasaki, I have enjoyed Hamo in Kiyokawa where is my favourite Japanese food restaurant in Nagasaki. At the fisherman's port of Nagasaki, the amount of landing Hamo is ranked at fifth in Japan. |
| Hamo, (http://nagasaki-sakana.com/seasonal_fish/2731/) |
In English, Hamo is pike conger, academically named Muraenesox
cinereus. Hamo has long body like eel. From Edo era, the long body fish were
valued as the invigorating ingredient due to the shape. And during the poor transportation to Kyoto, Hamo survived to send to Kyoto from Osaka port because of the strength and powerful characters. The Hamo has thick body
and a lot of bone in the meat. In Japan, this fish were cooked as the fish
paste or in the Japanese restaurants. This Fish is
Hone-kiri (cutting the bones) is one of the highest technique of Japanese chefs, Itamae
In the Japanese food
restaurants, the pike conger were cooked after the bone cutting. The Itamae
will use the special kitchen knife for the purpose of carving the pike conger,
called Hone-kiri-bouchou (meaning knife for cutting the bones). He will carving
the pike conger with thin slice as 1-1.5mm, with perpendicular to the body,
using the heavy weight and sharpness of the knife to crave the thin slice. The sound
of cutting the bone is rhythmical and solid, as giving us the incessant
clicking.
After the bone cutting, Itamae will boil, steam or cook for
your courses. When he boiled, the shape of fish meat will get the lovely shape
as flower blooms.
Hamo, the great actor as the ingredient in Japanese food
Hamo dishes have various cook style, boiled, braised, roast or raw. We will feel the summer and survive the heatwave with the strength of this fish.
Sashimi and boiled Hamo with pram sauce (with red brown sauce)
Hamo Yanagawa (braised with egg)
Kabayaki sushi ( Teriyaki-like roasted Hamo)
Elder: 25th August 2014
Japanese restaurant, Kiyokawa
Nagasaki
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